A straight razor can achieve longer strokes than a safety razor but don’t try to imitate the movies, it doesn’t work.ĭon’t apply pressure and let the blade do the work. If it’s too aggressive, you risk cutting the skin whereas too mild will only tug rather than remove beard hair.Īlways shave in short, gentle strokes with the grain. Nevertheless, your freedom of movement is limited to only about 5°. Similarly, the lower the angle, the milder the shave. The more the blade is perpendicular, the more aggressive the shave. However, you have complete control here and can adjust the razor’s aggression according to your needs. Overall, 30° is considered the sweet spot for the perfect balance between a smooth and aggressive shave. Just like a safety razor, hold the straight razor at a 30° angle against your cheek. ![]() You can dip the blade into some water beforehand for a little extra lubrication but some people like to do this dry. When you’re ready, bring the razor to your face. You’d also lack the balance required on the tang to provide some resistance from the blade’s cutting weight. However, the fingers tend to spill over the spine, which adds too much pressure on the blade. Some people may place all three first fingers over the shank with the pinky on the tang. Your little finger will provide balance much like a cat’s tail for better control. Your little finger can either hang idly or you can press against the underside of the tang. Now gently wrap your wedding ring finger over the back of the tang so the space between it and your middle finger is taken by the scales. ![]() You should be effectively pinching the shank with these three digits. Place your index finger and middle finger on the top of the shank with your thumb underneath just behind the shoulder and heel. Yet, there is a correct way to hold a straight razor.įirst, open the straight razor a full 270° so that the scales and blade form an L with the cutting edge pointing outwards. Like holding a pencil, there are many ways you can do it. Once you’re ready, fill your sink halfway with warm water and keep a clean towel close to hand.ģ. We provide an in-depth guide on lathering as well as a shaving soap guide. Learn more about stropping with our razor sharpening guide.įinally, create a lather with your soap once it has properly bloomed before applying it to your face. Remember to test the blade’s sharpness before finishing. Leaving it too long before shaving may cause the razor to bloat and lose some of its cutting edge but this tends to be on a microscopic level. It’s important to do this before you shave. This is the process that realigns and polishes the blade unlike honing, which creates a cutting edge. You’ll also need to “bloom” the soap, which simply requires a few drops of water on its surface so to soften it up before lathering.Įither before your shower or while the soap blooms, you’ll need to strop your razor. Whether you choose a hot towel or a shower is up to you but the end result should open the pores and soften the hairs. Stropping, Lathering & Skin PreparationĪs you should have already read in our central wet shaving page mentioned above, you must start by prepping your face. We especially suggest that you read it if you’re used to using an electric shaver.Ģ. A quick read through this will fully prepare you for the basics in wet shaving and help with this more advanced guide. Go slow, take your time and perhaps avoid shaving in the morning when you’re in a rush to get to work.įinally, make sure that you read our central wet shaving guide before you begin. ![]() Therefore, don’t be disappointed if your first shaves aren’t perfect. Remember, nicks and slip-ups are common even amongst the most seasoned shaving veterans. If you decide to skip on a few things, it could lessen the overall experience.Īt the very least, you should already own the following: Although sometimes you can cut corners, we recommend that you have a full arsenal at your disposable. Firstly, you will need a couple of tools to shave with a straight razor.
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